Most people familiar about me
know that I am a history buff. Its probably brought out by my love for
mythology, long lost kingdoms & dynasties and the stories that I have heard
during my childhood and the inner urge to seek those stories in art forms and
actual representations from the past. So it was only logical that Hampi tops
the list given that it represented one of the most historic ruins to be found
in India and also being the Kishkinta of Ramayana. Ruins are also more photogenic
by nature due to the wild shapes and angles they offer. So after planning for 2
years ( last year we cancelled the trip just weeks before ), we finally made it
to Hampi this time.
This photo log specifically doesn’t
cover the Vittala temple, Hazara Rama temple or the Murals of Virupaksha since it
requires a separate write up by itself.
Imagine Mahismathi ( of Bahubali ) being in ruins. Hampi would be just that. A place of absolute grandeur and splendour even in the ruins. It is said to be the 2nd largest city in the world under the Vijayanagara empire after Beijing and also one of the richest cities in the world at that time. Today the place is in ruins for most part but the signs are unmistakeable. It is also the place which in Ramayana was known as Kishkinta. So there are lots of references to Ramayana at Hampi. It also is home to the place where Hanuman was born and where Rama and Lakshmana stayed put before deciding to cross to Lanka. So a place with huge historic significance.
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| Most people familiar with Hampi would know that the stone chariot of vittala temple and this Narasimha statue are the most coveted of Hampi. We can virtually call Lord Narasimha the poster boy of Hampi. The largest monolithic structure in Hampi standing 6.7 metre tall is the statue of Lakshmi Narasimha. The lakshmi statue was destroyed during the muslim raids. Many people mistake it to be Ugra Narasimha but this is actually Prasanna Narasimha or Lakshmi Narasimha. |
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| The Virupaksha temple gopuram towers above the surrounding - a view from aside the Tungabhadra river |
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| The beautiful temple complex of Virupaksha. We were in quite early immediately after witnessing sunrise and it was a serene atmosphere. It turns quite noisy once the crowds flock in since this is the only working temple in Hampi and is very famous. |
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| Manmatha tank of the Virupaksha temple. A capture just after sunrise |
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| A pin hole effect created by the makers 1400 years ago. You get an inverted image of the temple's main gopuram when the suns rays falls. |
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A junior to the bigger monolith, this is called Sasivekalu Ganesh. A cute story attached to the snake around his belly. He kept on eating modaks and feared his belly may burst and decided to tie the poor snake around his belly as a belt to prevent it and went on with this merry eating ways. |
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A 4.5 metre high monolith called Kadale Kalu Ganesh. Unfortunately to prevent further damage, he has been kept caged and in darkness. |
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| Ruins of mandapas viewed from the Tungabadra river side |
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If there is one place in Hampi which looks extremely beautiful and surreal even in the ruins its the Achutaraya temple. It has a 300-400 metre open space in the front and with the rock boulders as the back drop gave an other worldly feel. This open space also seems excellent for bird watching. Could see atleast 8-9 varieties of birds just during our walk to this place.
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| Inside the Achutaraya temple |
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| The topography of the place yields several such captures. |
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Narasimha temple near the Tungabhadra river. Got to feel for the guy guarding the place. Its a real lonely job |
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| 2 storied gateway |
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Kings balance ( Tulabaram ) for weighing the king against precious metals for offering to temple and people. |
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A view from Talarighatta gate ( toll plaza in those days ) |
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| At the Mahanavami Dibba. The Chinese influence is evident throughout Hampi |
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| A beautiful stepped well in reverse pyramid form. Great symmetry. |
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Mahanavami Dibba - This is where the kings were supposed to have been seated as they watched over cultural festivities |
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| Pan supari Bazaar |
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| The Pattabirama temple is in the exact opposite direction in comparison to the other Hampi ruins and is easy to miss but do visit this place for the solitude it offers. |
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| Lotus Mahal |
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| Lotus Mahal |
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| The elephant stables. Huge enclosures for elephants. Only makes you think what grandeur the city would have been if the elephant stables were so well made. |
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| Entrance to the underground Shiva temple |
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| The underground Shiva temple. Dark and spooky place. Was not sure about getting into the water. |
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| Badavi Linga. |
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| The Hemakuta Hills in the evening. |
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| Virupaksha temple complex |
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| Hemakuta hill temple cluster with the Virupaksha temple on the right |
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| Queens Bath |
Hampi is no longer a place where people throng just for the
ruins and the temple. There are today a variety of other activities like rock climbing,
spiritual seeking and even a marathon that goes around the ruins. It may not be long before a temple run kind of a game is made with the Hampi ruins as the backdrop. It would serve as a perfect recipe for today's mobile generation and also ensure people take some interest in knowing the history of this wonderful place.
After visiting this place and numerous other locations across South, I am clear that our history books are so poor in content and relevance.
Travelling to Hampi
350 kms from Bangalore and about 15 kms from Hospet.
From Bangalore, roads are good for the first 225 kms and after that there is a massive road laying on and hence slows down the drive. Not that the roads are bad. Its basically the diversions. So its a easy 6.5 hours drive from Bangalore airport.
By train, the nearest station would be Hospet.
I found staying in Hospet better since the facilities are reasonable and its a 30 min drive from Hampi.
Travelling around Hampi can be ideally done with a vehicle or you can hire an auto for a day long trip. Though we had our cab, we commuted a lot by foot. That's a personal choice. If you are not the kind used to walking around, choose the other options and still go around.
Don't forget to get a map of the place. It definitely helps. There are enough guys selling you this for 200 bucks. Its a good referencing point. I also recommend reading the book Hampi - History and Architecture by Salini Vineeth for the serious history lovers. Its a short book of around 70 pages. Helps you have a basic grip of Hampi architecture.
Also if you are a true history buff like me, do hire a guide or do enough research online so that you are able to relate to the sculptures and their stories. They make it memorable.
Food options are limited in Hampi. There is a Mango tree hotel which is quite popular there near the Virupaksha temple. We had our lunch at Classic Inn which is on the way to the Pattabirama temple. It had delicious food and a good ambience. If you are however looking for the economical option, Mango tree would be the better bet.
