Friday, November 4, 2016

Kailasanathar Temple - Kanchipuram



Pushpeshu Jati, Purusheshu Vishnu, Nareshu Rambha, Nagareshu Kanchi is what the great Kalidasa wrote several hundred years back meaning if its flower its Jasmine, if its a man its Vishnu, if its a lady its Rambha and if its a city its Kanchi. 

Kanchipuram as the city is known today is considered as one of the holiest cities in India and was a flourishing location of not only Hinduism but also Buddhism and Jainism. The place is home to some 150 Shiva and Vishnu temples with majority of them being the former. Kanchipuram is actually demarcated into Shiva Kanchi, Vishnu Kanchi and Jain Kanchi. Kanchipuram acted as the capital city during the early Chola period but the city actually rose into prominence when the Pallavas made it into their capital city. 

The place is just 75 kms ffrom Chennai and the roads are extremely good to drive on. We were actually on a 3 day road trip and arrived at Kanchipuram from Tiruvannamalai. We decided we were leaving Kanchi by noon which gave us time to visit 3 temples. Of the 3 Kailasanathar was the one we visited last but it comes up first in the blog because such is the beauty of the place. The temple is the oldest one in Kanchipuram and said to be built around 700 AD by Narasimhavarman II of the Pallavas. The temple is built of sandstone and has an unique 16 sided Shiva Lingam. 

The temple has the main deity at the centre and the inner walls of the temple has 58 small shrines or sculptures depicting Shiva 's various forms / actions. The outer walls of the main pragara has sculptures of other lords as well. Across the temple you find several sculptures of the lions which were the symbol of the Pallava dynasty. The city was later taken over by the Cholas and hence is said to have some influence of the Chola style of architecture as well in the later additions made. I am no history expert. So cant comment on that. It is also said that the Cholas got their inspiration for construction of the Brihadeeswarar temple after seeing the Kailasanathar temple only. There are striking similarities especially in the main gopuram pattern between the 2 temples. 

The place is an ASI protected monument and maintained pretty well. However you can see in places the damage that the restoration works have caused to the beautiful sculptures with shoddy plastering and some paintings defaced. Its not considered a very 'powerful' deity and hence the crowds are thankfully lower which helps in you allowing the location to sink in into you without a constant interruption. A guide would have been really helpful but we couldnt find any. 

Some photos from the visit. 




































Tapola - near Koyna River / Shivsagar lake



We were on a 3 day trip to Mahabaleshwar. Though I make every effort to ensure that we donot visit any of the places normally flocked by tourists, Tapola was never part of the list. We had been to Wai during the morning ( refer the blogs on Dhom Lake and Lakshmi Narasimha Temple ) and we were reasonably tired. But our driver was adamant that we go to Tapola. So with great reluctancy we set out for Tapola. It just showed that no matter what research you do, there are going to be a few other places which can take your breath away. 

The route from Mahabaleshwar to Tapola was fantastic - not for the roads but for the greenery. At some stretches it was just valleys on one side with the Koyna river showing off its curves at several places. We also had Ilayaraja's songs for company and with the weather being really pleasant, it was actually heaven on earth. 

The distance from Mahabaleshwar to Tapola is about 30 kms through winding roads and should take about an hour at best. There is not much traffic once you cross the vicinity of Mahabaleshwar. 


Since it was almost 3-4 months past the monsoons, the water levels had receded. Note the snap below. During peak rainy season, the water levels are near the trees as per the locals but at that time they also stop the boating and the place almost becomes inaccessible. 



However we had the privilege to drive right upto near the boat which you see in the snap. Infact there were cars being transported via the large boat to the other side of the bank. Saves a lot of time rather than taking the circuitous route through the hills. 


When we reached there, the sun was just about to set and sky was filling itself with beautiful hues of golden and orange. There was the option to take the boat ride but neither myself nor my wife and kid are great fans of boating. So we instead just settled on the banks gazing away at the boats fading into the different corners and enjoying the minor changes which the sunset causes to the colors of the surroundings. There were hardly a handful of people there and believe me, it is a meditative experience.  



The sunset was just gorgeous with the sun rays piercing through the cold January evening, the lake staying perfectly still reflecting the golden evening rays, the boats just mildly swaying away to the ever so gentle breeze.



On the way back to Mahabaleshwar, we stopped at this place just adjacent to a tiny shop. Notice how the river takes the shape of a horse. 

Finally a big thank you for our driver to have persisted on us to travel to this location. 

Sewree Flamingo Point - Mumbai


The flamingos date with the mudflats of Sewree started in 90s and since then they have kept the date every year. These flamingos arrive at Kutch in Gujarat in end November and they come over to the Sewree mudflats around February. Sewree mudflats has a lot of Mangroves which acts as a food and shelter option for these lesser flamingos. So when the tide is low and the water recedes exposing the mudflats thousands of flamingos converge on them for feeding which is a site to behold. 

The place is very easily accessible and google maps has a place tagged as Sewree flamingo point itself. I have given a screen shot for reference. 



My camera kit basically has 18-55mm, 50mm prime, 100mm macro lens and my trusted companion 55-250 mm. If I have been to one place where I felt my kit was inadequate, it was this place. The flamingos get into a feeding frenzy quite far away from the viewing point and it was very difficult to get a close up shot. Knowing the subject I was photographing I was also carrying a Fujifilm HS 10 which has a 30x zoom but that didnt give me stable images. So if you are a serious photographer carry a better telephoto lens for better captures. 

Another key point to take into account while visiting this place is the tide. During high tide, the water gets very close to the shores and hence the flamingos normally retreat into the mangroves. During low tide when the water recedes, they come over in droves for feeding in the mud flats. Look up online for the tide timings and ensure you go there during the low tide. Else you will be in for disappointment. 

Apart from the flamingos there are a variety of other birds as well which can be spotted here. Bombay Natural Historic Society ( BNHS ) organises lots of guided tours at reasonable rates. You can look up their website for the details. Also sometimes boats get dismantled here and there are several other boats docked up near the shore which can be pretty to photograph. 

And hmmmm before I forget, its also the place in Mumbai where you can watch a sunrise next to the beach. 














Points to remember

  • Do carry water, hat, a good camera, preferably binoculars.
  • The place is quite away from the main roads and hence vehicles are sparse. Preferably bring your own vehicle. Walking back is not a great option as the distance is quite high. 
Some photos from the visit.